Snart er det igen tid til dybsne skiløb, skitouring og isklatring. Efteråret er ankommet til Chamonix og med dalende temperaturer og kortere dage begynder det at kriple efter skiløb. Jeg håber at se ligeså mange som de sidste år til gode ski og klatre eventyr hernede.
Se under “vinter” for opdaterede datoer for offpiste og skitouring ture.
Vi krydser fingre for en stor vinter!
Just a little low down on the ice climbing conditions these days in Cham. It’s cold and ice is forming, but for the moment the iceclimbing possibilities are very limited.
Today we wanted to go ice climbing, but didn’t really manage to find anything in condition. At least that would involve more than the afternoon that we had available. Cremerie is dry, Vormaine (Le Tour) is very thin, Col du Montets (mini-goulotte + the ice-icle) is not formed. We then drowe towards Switzerland hoping that maybe things had frozen more up. The Frigo (just after the border) is not anywhere nearly formed, the “cigar” after the paraavalanche is not either. We drowe back to Col du Montets and finally did a very thin, but thankfully not so steep little 50m wall up over the Swiss boulders.
It’s really cold these days, but icefalls are still suffering from a very warm november, and recent rain and warm weather below 2000m. For iceclimbing you’d be better off trying towards Mauvaisin (Val de Bagnes Switzerland), Montenvers (just below Pas de Chevre) and the “rive droite” of the Argentiere glacier (Jumeaux looks like its forming OK). Also word is that Cogne is very thin for this time of year, but with a few lines forming.
Conditions in the Mont Blanc massif are pretty dry and generally not perfect for the usual goulotte climbing which normally is great for this time of the year. One of the places that nevertheless are in a good shape is the north face of Grandes Jorasses – one of the classic 6 north faces. This mythical mountain face sports serious and long routes in the TD+/ED range, no route less than 1000m long.
This is exactly what my climbing partner (Stian) and I went to take advantage of today. We had put our eyes towards a route that combines setions of the Slovene route and the Croz spur route. We had found information from other climbers giving a good idea about the conditions of the route (see: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49822).
Unfortunately Stian suffered from blisters on the approach to the hut yesterday. Still hoping it would not be too bad, we left the hut around 2:30 this morning plodding up the glacier. The glaciers are quite bare and icy and the gradual rising slopes just accentuated the pain.
After about 1h we turned around. It wouldn’t work climbing a 1000m ice & mixed route with painful feet. Another team had the same problem and also had to abandon – Just wasn’t in the cards today!
Soon, quite different holidays coming up – surfing in much warmer climate ….The Slovene-Croz route will be on the list for later
Here a picture of the NFace of Grandes Jorasses last evening w. our intended route.